History

The present form of the house is substantially early C16, with fragmentary evidence to suggest an earlier building on the site. The C16 house is of gentry status, and was probably built by Robert ap Gwilym, chief constable of Painscastle Hundred in 1552-3. He bequeathed the house to his son John ap Robert in 1574, and the property was sold in 1579. As built, Ciliau was a hall-house, traditionally and hierarchically planned with a 3-bay hall and cross passage set between storeyed inner (parlour) and outer (service) bays. The hall, whilst open to the roof, was furnished with a lateral fireplace from the outset. Its predecessor may have been cruck-framed, but the C16 house was essentially stone-built, though the flanking bays had timber-framed upper storeys, their jettied gables suggesting cross-wings - the house is otherwise a simple rectangle in plan. In the mid-late C16, the hall was enriched with wall-paintings, many of which have, remarkably, survived. In the late C16 or early C17, the hall was floored over to create a full upper storey; original fireplace stairs in each flanking bay were superseded by a timber stair rising from the hall, probably later in the C17. Subsequent change was limited, though the timber-framed gables were re-faced in stone, perhaps contemporary with some good early C18 interiors, and the cross-passage was at some time subdivided to create a small service room to the S, the original doorway blocked and a new doorway created in the S wall of the kitchen, possibly using stone taken from the N passage entry which shows signs of reconstruction.

Exterior

A hall house, in which the central hall is set between flanking outer bays, which present gabled fronts to both elevations suggestive of cross wings. Lime-washed stone with slate roofs, but retaining stone flagged roof to E cross-gable. Cross-gabled bays have integral stacks in their outer walls, with paired shafts to E, single shaft to W. Hall has massive projecting stack in N elevation. On this elevation, cross-passage entry alongside E cross-gable, the disturbed masonry suggesting some re-working, but the carpentry retaining chamfered frame and shaped door-head, and double-skinned boarded door with strap-hinges and draw-bar. Blocked window with dressed stone surround alongside doorway (a similar window concealed by lean-to addition beyond the fireplace), and very small gabled dormer window in roof of hall above. Small cross-window in left hand gable, lighting kitchen, and a single window at first floor alongside the stack in the E elevation. Beyond the hall stack, a C19 lean-to projects across hall and cross gable. West cross gable has cross-window to ground floor (offset to left) and similar window in upper floor, reduced in size from a wider original. Both gables have projecting joist ends, indicating former timber-framed jetty.

South elevation: blocked cross-passage doorway with stone arched head; alongside it, the existing doorway to kitchen has 4-centred arched head and dressed stone surround, possibly re-using stone taken from N cross-passage entry. Kitchen (in E end bay) has 2-light mullioned-window to ground floor with remains of chamfered stone head, and 3-light window above. The stonework is stepped back at first floor level, probably relating to reconstruction of the former timber-framed upper storey in stone; remains of timber-framing clearly visible in inner return wall of this gable, as also that to W. The evidence suggests a hierarchical arrangement, with higher-status close-studding over the parlour bay, square-panelled framing at the service end. Hall has large C19 3-light mullioned and transomed window; 2 dormers in the roof light its upper storey. W gable has small window to ground floor, wider window with timber mullions at first floor, offset to right, and once wider.

Interior

Entering the house via the N doorway, the cross passage has ornate ceiling with roll-moulded beams; post and panel partition to hall, with chamfered architrave on high base to doorway. Hall has substantial beamed ceiling, the longitudinal beam carried at each end on chamfered posts with moulded brackets. Cross-beam to S wall curiously stepped (in order to avoid wall above window?). Moulded cornice survives on S wall above window and on staircase. C17 dog-leg staircase against S wall and passage partition: shaped newels with ogee caps, turned balusters and closed string. Lateral fire-place against N wall. The most striking feature of the hall is the wall-painting: the painting on the dais-end partition is remarkably complete, probably based on blackwork textiles of the later C16: the tripartite design has a frieze of strawberries above a central panel with leaf and flower trails, birds and beasts. Further wall-paintings (possibly belonging to an earlier phase of decoration) have been found on the S wall, and there are traces on the cross-passage partition.

Inner bay beyond dais-end partition was later subdivided to form two rooms. In the parlour, the longitudinal beam is supported on a moulded post similar to those in the hall; the beam is plastered, and there is a deep moulded plaster cornice, probably representing early C18 remodelling. Remains of staircase visible alongside fireplace. Small room to S has broad chamfered ceiling beam with run-out stops.

Beyond the cross-passage, the kitchen has wide fireplace against side wall; 3-bay ceiling with broad flat joists and mortices in S beam indicating position of former partition creating small service room to S. Post and panel partition, with shaped heads to two doors, again giving evidence for the original layout of this end as two service rooms originally entered from the cross-passage.

First-floor: central room reveals the arch-braced collar trusses that formed the roof of the open hall; traces of painted fictive close-studding in each long wall. The room above the kitchen in the E cross-gable was remodelled in 1709: the date appears in a carved timber panel with stylised tulips above the doorway to a closet, and there is a good contemporary bolection moulded fireplace. Fragment of moulded decoration on truss survives from the earlier late medieval arrangement.

Reasons for Listing

Listed grade I as an exceptionally important and well-preserved high-status vernacular house of the C16. The house is remarkable not only for the level of survival of its original arrangement, but also for the excellence of its detail: high quality carpentry and an unusually complete, sophisticated wall-painting in the hall, thought to be one of the most significant domestic wall-paintings in Wales. It marks a clear stage in the development of the regional house, and illustrates with exceptional clarity the status and aspirations of lesser gentry in the Tudor period.

External Links

• Cadwr Listing
• Wikidata Q17742182

External links are from the relevant listing authority and, where applicable, Wikidata. Wikidata IDs may be related buildings as well as this specific building. If you want to add or update a link, you will need to do so by editing the Wikidata entry.

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