John Knox's House, 45 High Street, Edinburgh, Edinburgh, Edinburgh

Description

Late 15th and 16th century, extended later 16th and 17th centuries. Long, narrow 3-storey, basement (laigh floor) and attic tenement comprising structure of earlier tenement to rear (backland) and later additional tenement (foreland) fronting the High Street at the narrowed site of the old Netherbow Gate (see Notes). Jettied, painted 16th century galleries on S and W elevations; canted, coursed sandstone corner bay with Renaissance detailing (see below); gabled and jettied attic dormer bay to to S and W elevations (that to S is mid 19th century). Ground floor shops; forestair at S, circa 1840. Base course; string course between ground and 1st floor of corner bay; gilded inscription on entablature below (see Notes). Rubble-built core with crowstepped gable and corniced gable end stack. Irregular fenestration.

W AND S ELEVATIONS OF HIGH STREET FORELAND: single bay to W; 2 entrances at ground below jettied timber gallery; timber boarded door to Hope's Close (now blocked) in re-entrant angle at outer left; large window at 1st and 2nd floors with small window at 2nd floor left, dormer above. 3 bays to S at ground (17th century addition); forestair to outer right of S elevation; 2 1st floor doors (timber boarded/timber panelled) at right angles within timber gallery; 2 large windows at 1st and 2nd floors; small single stair window to right. Canted corner bay: 1st floor window to centre with Doric-pilastered and corniced surround surmounted by pair of urn finials and central blind oculus; flanking gilded wreaths; painted, gilded wreathed arms beneath cill (see Notes); corner sundial with figure pointing to sun emerging from clouds (see Notes).

N ELEVATION OF BACKLAND: narrow, rubble-built single-bay; 2-storey flat-roofed section to ground and laigh floors; segmental-arched 1st floor window; brick infill below 2nd floor window; rendered 3rd floor.

Timber sash and case multi-pane glazing throughout (not original). Predominantly red pantiled pitched roofs; grey slate roof to rear; coped random rubble stacks; coped stack to front; clay cans. Cast-iron rainwater goods.

INTERIOR: 2 rooms deep with small foreland chambers contained within S and W jettied galleries. Foreland slightly higher than backland. Access at W originally via turnpike stair from ground level and from S via turnpike stair from forestair at 1st floor. Laigh floor: accessed via curved stone stair beneath S gallery (originally accessible from street); hearth with brick arch and stone jambs; rear room contains timber well stair. Ground floor: heavy beamed ceiling; stone booths (facing S onto High Street) with chamfered openings; corbels supporting timber gallery above. 1st floor: foreland principal room with roll-moulded chimneypiece, Delft tiled hearth with vases of flowers. 2nd floor: timber panelled gallery chamber to S ('Knox's study'); roll-moulded chimneypiece with figurative Delft tiled hearth (central panel depicts the Last Supper); large carved oak panel above with smaller panels dated (above) '31 OCTOBER' and (below) 'AD 1561'; principal room with 16th century oak and pine arcaded panelling with marquetry frieze and modillioned cornice; beam and board ceiling with early 17th century tempera decoration (see Notes); panelled door with marquetry insets; painting fixed to wall of Cain and Abel, circa 1640; roll-moulded chimneypiece with Delft tiled hearth depicting landscape scenes and pilastered carved oak overmantel (central tablet carved with flowers and bird); original oak floor boards; backland room to N through barley-twist gate; plaster walls and plain beam and plaster ceiling; roll-moulded chimneypiece with Delft tiles depicting Crucifixion; stained glass Knox memorial window by James Ballantine, 1853 (see Notes); plain panelling by Hippolyte Jean Blanc, 1886. Attic floor (now offices): timber doors with plain mouldings; stair to loft with hearth.

Statement of Interest

Located next to the site of the medieval Netherbow Port (demolished in 1764) and consisting of two attached tenements, the earlier backland was once in alignment with Moubray House next door (separately listed), also dating in part to the 15th century. The narrowed site, shaped by the projecting later foreland of John Knox House and 2 or 3 other adjoining forelands to the E, formed the gateway to the city and was a hub of commercial and religious activity. The W elevation of John Knox House closes the vista looking E from the great market place that was the High Street. The luckenbuiths (stone stalls) on the ground floor, once open to the High Street, are the only surviving examples of medieval shops in Scotland.

The building is an important and rare survival of a medieval house, having escaped calls for its demolition first in 1794, then in the 1850s and again in the 1950s. The connection with John Knox is significant and, although he may or may not have lived in the house, the persistent association has undoubtedly helped prevent its demise during successive periods of 'improvement'. Instead, the mid 19th century conservation campaign to save the building was one of the first of its kind in Scotland.

Mariota Arres and James Mossman, goldsmith to Mary, Queen of Scots, owned the building from 1556 and made significant alterations. These remain in the form of the grand 2nd floor rooms and the ornate panelled decoration in the principal chamber. Mossman's arms on the exterior of the house display the couple's initials 'IM' and 'MA' and the inscription on the frieze below reads 'Luve God abuve al and yi nychtbour as yi self'. The religious figure above the sundial represents Moses but has often been said to represent Knox. At one stage, a timber pulpit was affixed and the figure appeared to preach from above (the pulpit is now displayed inside the house).

The building underwent a period of concerted restoration in the mid 19th century and opened as a museum in 1853 (run by the then Free and United Free Churches of Scotland, later the Church of Scotland, who continue to look after it today). James Ballantine's stained glass window was gifted in 1863 and depicts John Knox in the central panel. In 1886, Jean Hippolyte Blanc carried out further restorations including structural repairs and 'perfecting' of the panelling in the principal apartment. At this time, 17th century Dutch tiles salvaged from other houses being demolished in the area were incorporated into the hearths of the principal rooms. The remarkable early 17th century tempera ceiling, painted with classical motifs and earthy imagery drawn from pattern books by local craftsmen, was discovered in the 1850s and finally uncovered in the 1970s. Although faded, it is completely original and depicts the 'grotesquerie' and 'diablerie' of the late Renaissance/early baroque period.

A comprehensive archaeological survey of the building was conducted in 1990-1 by Benjamin Tindall Architects. This uncovered previously unknown aspects of the house such as 16th century book pages that had been pasted onto on the ground floor ceiling, blocked openings on the S and E walls of the backland and a roll-moulded attic chimneypiece.

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